Create a unique gift tag
with an “especially made for you” touch.
Or adorn a seasonal card or embellish
a scrapbook page.
Traditionally shaped gift tag has top panel with
ribbon slot (accepts .375" wide ribbon flat) and reinforcement ring,
with pair of eyelet accent punch holes
(shapes also
included without eyelet holes).
Complete the EASY cross-stitch design using 2 ply
embroidery floss
with fine blunt no. 24 tapestry needle.
NOTE: only design stitching holes are included).
A stitchery area silhouette cutout buffer layer
and
solid layer are also included as optional layers for
a more finished final
project.
Cross-stitch count: 260.
Tag finished size: 2.5” wide x 4” long
ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main tag with stitching holes (2)
B stitching area cutout backside tag layer
C plain backside tag layer
D contrast tag top panels (2) E slit reinforcements (2)
2. Make sure the stitching hole openings are free from cutout waste (chads). One way to do this is
to use the end of a paperclip to push through to backside
then rub/scrape tiny "confetti" pieces away.
NOTE: my initial cutout of the stitching hole tag was done
using the new "deluxe long-lasting blade" which made
figure '6' cuts instead of completed circles for many of
the holes. When I changed to a standard fresh blade
for a later cutting, the holes were round and complete.
Not sure if that would be someone else's experience,
but just a head's up in case that problem arises.
3. Position and glue together the two stitching layers,
taking care that all cut edges align as precisely
as possible, including stitching holes, eyelet holes,
slot and tag edges.
Press the glued-up tags under a flat heavy weight
such as this thick book or equivalent wood plank,
flat weights, etc. and allow to dry thoroughly
(for several hours or over night).
4. Position and attach the reinforcement accent shapes
onto the tag top accents, aligning the slot cut outs
of each as precisely as possible.
5. Prepare to begin stitching by assembling needles
and floss. This is the recommended needle type
and size: tapestry no. 24.
DMC floss was used for the model; select colors
of choice to coordinate with your paper choices.
Model colors: body 3712 ; tail 3865.
6. Cut a 26-28" length of 6-ply floss, then separate
a single strand.
7. Loop the strand in half to bring the cut ends together.
8. Thread the loop end through the eye of
the tapestry needle, then . . .
. . . pull the double strand through to leave the cut ends
as the 4-5 inch 'tail', with the loop as the 'end'
of the stitching length.
9. Print out the stitching CHART or have ready access on screen.
10. These instructions will begin with the smaller tail
contrast area of the design. Locate the first stitch on the tail's
bottom row - this is where the stitching will begin. Then
isolate the upper left stitching hole that will produce the first 'X'.
This is the hole where the needle will pass from backside
to frontside as stitching begins.
11. FIRST RULE OF CROSS-STITCHING:
create ALL stitches in same order direction.
That is, the "legs" of the 'X' need to be stitched
in the same manner throughout. For these instructions,
this will be: FIRST the 'right' slant
and SECOND the 'left' slant.
NOTE that the order presented in the above illustrationis optimum and may change slightly as stitching progresses
in order NOT to 'unstitch' previous stitches.
12. Insert the needle back-to-front in the hole identified in Step 10,
pull the floss through for just 5-6 inches, then . . .
. . . immediately insert the needle front-to-back into
the bottom right hole of the first 'X', and pull the needle
through to the backside, then . . .
. . . pass the needle through the end loop . . .
. . . and pull the floss through the remainder of
the length, allowing the loop to slide into place
against the tag's backside and anchor the floss.
(This is how to begin each NEW length of floss,
and is referred to as "tying on".)
13. Regular stitching can now proceed.
Insert needle up in the next X stitch's top-left hole
(#3 in the illustration in Step 11), pull floss through
completely - taut but NOT tight.
14. Complete the second X right slant stitch by inserting
needle down through hole #4, then up through
hole #5 and so forth, completing ALL the
right slant stitches ACROSS the first row.
15. When the first row's left slant stitches are complete,
move UP to the next row, work across the right slant stitches,
then back across with the left slant stitches, and so forth,
until the tail rows are complete.
16. Tying off: with the needle on the backside of the work,
slide the needle under a few stitches of an adjacent row,
pull floss through completely, then clip even with tag surface.
NOTE: this is the same tying off procedure for
any time stitching color is changed,
or a new length of floss is required.
17. For the bunny body, prepare and thread new color (pink)
floss on needle, tie on at lower left/bottom row
and work across the right slant stitches.
At the end of the row, NOTE that there is an "extra" hole
at top right that actually belongs to the row above -
be aware of this set up throughout this design -
especially around the neck/head shaping -
and refer closely to the chart to make sure to count stitches.
18. Continue to stitch to complete the rows,
following the procedure to create right slant stitches
across, then return along the row to create left slant stitches.
Work around the completed tail area. Tie off
used up lengths and tie on new lengths as needed.
Here is a view of the backside of sample tag.
Be as neat as possible. Avoid long "bridge" passes
from one complete area to another by planning
to work back (often downward) to unstitched areas
with right slant stitches, then back up to active row
with left slant stitches as required, such as the second
side of body beyond tail.
Tie off when all stitching is complete.
19. To make the tag's backside look nice, and buffer
the thickness of the stitching to avoid rippling at edges
where the layers need to come together when joining,
use the stitching shape . . .
. . . which is glued to the backside of stitched
assembly, with outer cut edges, punch holes and slot edges
matched precisely.
20. Position and attach the plain tag with openings
and side edges matched up precisely.
(Consider pressing under a flat heavy weight until dry.)
21. Position and attach the top accent assemblies,
one on front and optionally one on back.
Here is the completed tag, with eyelets,
ribbon threaded through slot,
tied with twine.
