Cross Stitch Letter Tags and Bookmark Series

Gift tag and bookmark projects which each feature 

cut holes for hand cross-stitching a two-tone 

embroidered initial letter with rose bud. 

Cross-stitching diagram included to print for reference.

For tags, stitching shape is doubled for sturdiness,

hand-stitched, then echo "buffer" and plain back panels

are attached. Header and reinforcement accents added,

and ribbon length with twine tie added.

Tag measures approx. 2.375" wide x 3.75" tall

(W letter is slightly wider).

Bookmark is shown as fold-over magnet style with

score dash marks (to avoid tear-out with use) to create

.125" top face. Recess circles in inside front panels

are designed to hold .25" diam. rare earth magnet,

rectangle placement window on inside back panel

shows where to place 1" piece of magnet tape.

For simpler bookmark without magnets, prepare

and layer stitched, buffer and plain back panels.

Bookmark is approx. 2.375" wide x 5" tall when folded.

This tutorial will demonstrate stitching and assembly

steps using representative letters E or B.

The gift tag assembly and stitching will be

presented in first steps 1-17.

Bookmark assembly begins in step 18.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes for

the particular letter chosen to stitch and create.

(This tutorial will demonstrate the letter 'E'.)

A stitching layer (cut 2 for extra strength, glue together)

B buffer layer that accommodates stitching threads thickness

C plain back layer (to camouflage) backside of stitching

D tag top header accent and oval slot 

2. Remove any "chads" still in place in stitching holes

after the cutting and brushing-away step.

A bent paper clip end is one good tool to do this.

3. Layer and align the two stitching tags to make sure

all stitching hole and slot openings align as precisely

as possible, as well as outer edges, and glue together.

If using liquid adhesive, press the glued-up shapes

under a heavy flat weight such as this thick book

for a few hours until the glue is completely dried

to prevent warping or curling.

4. Assemble the stitching supplies needed.

For the tag sample project here, these are

the colors used:

light and dark gray for letter

pink, med. pink and dark pink for shaded bud

green for leaf and stem.

A blunt tapestry style needle is also needed:

size 24 (or 26) work well.

5. Study this stitching explanation diagram to see

one best practice for the stitching progression.

NOTE that the first stitch of the 'X' is always created

in the same direction (RIGHT slant in this instance). Then

the second stitch is added coming back across the row.

Even though the rows of these letter tags are short,

this consistent procedure should still be followed.

6. Cut a 24-30 length of floss, then separate out one ply.

Place cut ends together to fold in half, then insert the loop end

(somewhat easier to thread than two cut ends) through the eye . . .

. . . and pull along needle until the two cut ends are approx.

4" below needle eye. The loop is the bottom end

and the doubled floss will create 2-ply stitches.

7. Set up and print the stitching diagram or refer

to the diagram on-screen. Determine where you will

begin the stitching. Lower left is one good suggested spot.

Insert the needle at top left of the first 'X' stitch hole,

identified as #1 as shown in Step 5 diagram.

Draw floss through until 6-7 inches above loop end remain,

then insert needle from front to back in the lower right

#2 hole of first 'X' stitch.

With loop end and needle at backside of tag,

insert needle through the loop . . . 

. . . and pull the stitch down flush with backside surface

to tie on and lock the stitch.

8. From backside, insert needle into the #3 position at top left

hole for second stitch, then continue stitching across

toward right end of row. Come back toward left to complete

the first row.

9. Continue in same manner to complete second

and subsequent rows, endeavoring to work as smartly

as possible to complete "connected" stitches and

avoid stringing across long spans to get to next 

uncompleted stitches. Shown here is one way to

connect the 'E' bottom end stitches, by working the first

right slant stitches of row 2, moving upward to complete

the four short-row stitches, then moving down to

complete the left slant stitches.

10. Continue to work the stitching in rows,

sliding the needle along toward cut ends as needed

to make more floss available for stitching,

until the length of thread is too short for more stitches.

11. To "tie off", complete final slant stitch to bring

needle to backside, then run the needle under several

stitches to "bury" the thread, then . . . 

. . . clip the thread tail close to surface

12. Thread the needle with new length, "tie on" in manner

described above, and continue to complete stitches

on the chart in the color being used. Tie off as needed

and change colors.

13. Toward the center of the letter design there is

a HALF STITCH that will/may be needed near where

the leaf tip is, indicated here by the tiny hole not in line,

with the other stitching holes. Study the diagram to see

where left slant stitch combined of letter and leaf color 

is created using the small hole. 

14. Thread needle with various colors to match chart,

and continue to complete the letter, bud and leaf.

Refer to the bud stitching enlarged diagram to complete

these parts of design. Once the bud and leaf area

'X' stitches are in place, straight "back stitches" are

used to outline and emphasize those areas.

For bud, use darkest thread and switch to single ply

(pass 2-ply attached thread under a few stitches,

then cut away one of the plies, for instance),

then stitch next to the "color block" of the whole bud.

For leaf stems, use 2-ply to stitch where diagram indicates,

and also switch to single ply to outline the leaf 'X' stitches.

15. Position, align outer cut edges and slot edges

of buffer layer behind the stitched tag, 

and glue together, then . . .

. . . position and align the back plain tag layer,

and glue in place. 

Press under the heavy flat weight until thoroughly dry.

16. Position, align and attach header and reinforcement

ring shapes. Press under heavy weight.

17. Finish the tag by threading a short weight through

the slot, and tie with twine as shown, or as desired.

18. For bookmark (letter B as sample), identify and cut the shapes:

A stitching shape (use 1 shape for thinner bookmark;

or 2 for sturdier stitching)

B buffer shape with circle magnet cut out

C reinforcement front layer with circle magnet cut out

D reinforcement back layer with rectangle magnet cut out

E fold-over bookmark base with circle magnet cut out

19. For a simpler version of the bookmark which is

NOT fold-over or magnet style, cut:

F front stitching layers (1-2)

G buffer layer   H plain back (camouflage) layer

(Further explanation for this simpler project

is given in step 27.)

20. For the magnet version, a 1/4" neo disc magnet

is used (fits into the circle cutout 

in backside of FRONT layers) . . .

. . . and a cut piece of magnet tape

(fits into the rectangle cutout of inside BACK).

21. Crease and fold the magnet base layer by

locating the pairs of cut dashes near the center of

the length  near the side edges. Align a straight edge

between the first pair across the width, and score.

Repeat with second pair.

NOTE: it may be just as easy and make more sense 

to perform the scoring and creasing step when

the front and back reinforcement or stitching layers

are in position, then score and crease along the edges.

22. Fold along BOTH score lines, one at a time,

and crease.

23. Refer to steps 2-14 above to complete

the stitching of the letter and bud. Also layer

and glue together the stitching layer and buffer

and reinforcement layers; press under heavy weight.

24. Position and attach the front assembly over

the front portion of the bookmark base; press flat.

25. Position the BACK reinforcement layer to

the INSIDE of the bookmark base.

26. Position the neo magnet into the circle cutout

and attach with strong adhesive.

Cut a length of magnet tape that will fit into

the rectangle window, then position and attach

with strong adhesive.

Here is the completed fold-over magnet.

27. For simpler magnet, complete stitching layers,

position and attach the buffer layer, and . . . 

. . . plain back layer, and glue together; press

under a flat weight.

Cross Stitch Tulip Gift Tag

 

Create a unique gift tag with an “especially made for you” touch. 

Or adorn a seasonal card or embellish a scrapbook page. 

Traditionally shaped gift tag has top panel with ribbon slot 

(accepts .375 wide flat) and reinforcement ring, 

with pair of eyelet accent punch holes 

(shapes also included without eyelet holes). 

Cut and glue together two cardstock cross-stitching 

layers for strength. Cross-stitch pattern needle holes are stitched

 following included CHART to create a Dresden-style tulip design 

for springtime occasions 

(NOTE: only design stitching holes are included). 

Complete the EASY cross-stitch design using 2 ply embroidery floss 

with fine blunt no. 24 tapestry needle with floss color. 

Sample tag uses DMC 721. A stitchery area silhouette cutout buffer layer 

and solid layer are also included as optional layers 

for a more finished final project. 

Cross-stitch count: 108. 

Tag finished size 2.25” wide x 3.5” long.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A main tag with stitching holes (2)

B stitching area cutout backside tag layer

C plain backside tag layer

D contrast tag top panels (2)   E slit reinforcements (2)

2. Make sure the stitching hole openings are free

from cutout waste (chads). One way to do this is

to use the end of a paperclip to push through to backside

then rub/scrape tiny "confetti" pieces away.

3. Position and glue together the two stitching layers,

taking care that all cut edges align as precisely

as possible, including stitching holes, eyelet holes,

slot and tag edges.

Press the glued-up tags under a flat heavy weight

such as a thick book or equivalent wood plank,

flat weights, etc. and allow to dry thoroughly

(for several hours or over night).

4. Position and attach the reinforcement accent shapes

onto the tag top accents, aligning the slot cut outs

of each as precisely as possible.

5. Since this tag is very similar to the Bunny Side View

Medium Cross Stitch Tag, please follow this LINK

to find that tutorial, then refer to Steps 5-14, tying off

instruction in Step 16, Steps 19-21.

The tulip design has some "blank" or open areas that

help define and separate each side leaf from the stem,

and interior detail open areas, as indicated in this annotated 

stitching chart. Follow the stitching chart closely in these areas

to avoid filling in with un-charted stitches.

Here is the completed cross-stitch tag.

Bunny Large Cross Stitch Tag

Create a unique gift tag with an “especially made for you” touch. 

Or adorn a seasonal card or embellish a scrapbook page. 

Traditionally shaped gift tag has top panel with 

ribbon slot (accepts .375" wide ribbon flat) and reinforcement ring, 

with pair of eyelet accent punch holes 

(shapes also included without eyelet holes). 

Complete the EASY cross-stitch design using 2 ply 

embroidery floss with fine blunt no. 24 tapestry needle.

NOTE: only design stitching holes are included).  

A stitchery area silhouette cutout buffer layer and 

solid layer are also included as optional layers for

 a more finished final project. 

Cross-stitch count: 260. 

Tag finished size: 2.5” wide x 4” long

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A main tag with stitching holes (2)

B stitching area cutout backside tag layer

C plain backside tag layer

D contrast tag top panels (2)   E slit reinforcements (2)

2. Make sure the stitching hole openings are free

from cutout waste (chads). One way to do this is

to use the end of a paperclip to push through to backside

then rub/scrape tiny "confetti" pieces away.

NOTE: my initial cutout of the stitching hole tag was done

using the new "deluxe long-lasting blade" which made

figure '6' cuts instead of completed circles for many of

the holes. When I changed to a standard fresh blade

for a later  cutting, the holes were round and complete.

Not sure if that would be someone else's experience,

but just a head's up in case that problem arises.

3. Position and glue together the two stitching layers,

taking care that all cut edges align as precisely

as possible, including stitching holes, eyelet holes,

slot and tag edges.

Press the glued-up tags under a flat heavy weight

such as this thick book or equivalent wood plank,

flat weights, etc. and allow to dry thoroughly

(for several hours or over night).

4. Position and attach the reinforcement accent shapes

onto the tag top accents, aligning the slot cut outs

of each as precisely as possible.

5. Prepare to begin stitching by assembling needles

and floss. This is the recommended needle type

and size: tapestry no. 24.

DMC floss was used for the model; select colors

of choice to coordinate with your paper choices.

Model colors: body  3712 ; tail 3865.

6. Cut a 26-28" length of 6-ply floss, then separate

a single strand.

7. Loop the strand in half to bring the cut ends together.

8. Thread the loop end through the eye of 

the tapestry needle, then . . . 

. . . pull the double strand through to leave the cut ends

as the 4-5 inch 'tail', with the loop as the 'end'

of the stitching length.

9. Print out the stitching CHART or have ready access on screen.

10. These instructions will begin with the smaller tail

contrast area of the design. Locate the first stitch on the tail's

bottom row - this is where the stitching will begin. Then

isolate the upper left stitching hole that will produce the first 'X'.

This is the hole where the needle will pass from backside

to frontside as stitching begins.

11. FIRST RULE OF CROSS-STITCHING:

create ALL stitches in same order direction.

That is, the "legs" of the 'X' need to be stitched

in the same manner throughout. For these instructions,

this will be: FIRST the 'right' slant

and SECOND the 'left' slant.

NOTE that the order presented in the above illustration

is optimum and may change slightly as stitching progresses

in order NOT to 'unstitch' previous stitches.

12. Insert the needle back-to-front in the hole identified in Step 10,

pull the floss through for just 5-6 inches, then . . . 

. . . immediately insert the needle front-to-back into

the bottom right hole of the first 'X', and pull the needle

through to the backside, then . . . 

. . . pass the needle through the end loop . . .

. . . and pull the floss through the remainder of

the length, allowing the loop to slide into place

against the tag's backside and anchor the floss.

(This is how to begin each NEW length of floss,

and is referred to as "tying on".)

13. Regular stitching can now proceed.

Insert needle up in the next X stitch's top-left hole

(#3 in the illustration in Step 11), pull floss through

completely - taut but NOT tight.

14. Complete the second X right slant stitch by inserting

needle down through hole #4, then up through

hole #5 and so forth, completing ALL the 

 right slant stitches ACROSS the first row.

15. When the first row's left slant stitches are complete,

move UP to the next row, work across the right slant stitches,

then back across with the left slant stitches, and so forth,

until the tail rows are complete. 

16. Tying off: with the needle on the backside of the work,

slide the needle under a few stitches of an adjacent row,

pull floss through completely, then clip even with tag surface.

NOTE: this is the same tying off procedure for 

any time stitching color is changed, 

or a new length of floss is required.

17. For the bunny body, prepare and thread new color (pink)

floss on needle, tie on at lower left/bottom row

and work across the right slant stitches.

At the end of the row, NOTE that there is an "extra" hole

at top right that actually belongs to the row above -

be aware of this set up throughout this design -

especially around the neck/head shaping - 

and refer closely to the chart to make sure to count stitches.

18. Continue to stitch to complete the rows,

following the procedure to create right slant stitches

across, then return along the row to create left slant stitches.

Work around the completed tail area. Tie off

used up lengths and tie on new lengths as needed.

Here is a view of the backside of sample tag.

Be as neat as possible. Avoid long "bridge" passes

from one complete area to another by planning

to work back (often downward) to unstitched areas

with right slant stitches, then back up to active row

with left slant stitches as required, such as the second

side of body beyond tail.

Tie off when all stitching is complete.

19. To make the tag's backside look nice, and buffer

the thickness of the stitching to avoid rippling at edges

where the layers need to come together when joining,

use the stitching shape . . .

 . . . which is glued to the backside of stitched

assembly, with outer cut edges, punch holes and slot edges

matched precisely.

20. Position and attach the plain tag with openings

and side edges matched up precisely.

(Consider pressing under a flat heavy weight until dry.)

21. Position and attach the top accent assemblies,

one on front and optionally one on back.

Here is the completed tag, with eyelets,

ribbon threaded through slot,

tied with twine.