Scottish Piper Gift Tag

Representing the Twelfth Day of Christmas, 

this piper in traditional Scottish attire creates a gift tag 

that can be attached to a container for the final gift. 

Tiny details are composed on figure’s silhouette 

(which shows thru as leggings). Then the assembly is attached 

to offset tag base which includes top center punch hole 

for ribbon or twine attachment. 

Tag measures approx. 3.25” wide x 6.75” tall 

when completed. 

Pairs well with separate design 

“Box Thistle Ring 3D Round Divided with Lid”. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A offset figure tag base (for sturdiness cut extra 1-2 layers)

B figure silhouette (shows through as legs)

C tartan sash

D glengarry cap assembly (streamers base, cap, tassle,

brim trim, medallion circle

E face base with right side/nose overlay

F neck with eye contrast underlay (head)

G jacket sleeves and bodice

H sporran assembly: base contrast, "tassels" overlay, 

cantle medallion

I skirt assembly top, middle and base layers

J boots assembly: boot, cuff contrast, ribbon flashes

K bagpipes assembly: bag base with squeakers & knuckles,

mouthpiece and knuckle

L bag overlay

M hands

2. Prepare and assemble components:

skirt three layers, sporran three layers,

boots three shapes, by gluing together

into their respective assemblies as shown . . .

. . . here.

3. Assemble the bagpipe bag base with squeaker

knuckles attached, mouthpiece with knuckle

attached. NOTE the bag overlay should be

positioned and attached at this stage also.

4. Position the eye contrast partial head shape

behind the main head shape so that upper round

and side edges align, and attach. Next . . .

. . . position and attach the neck shape behind

the main head shape, below the eye contrast shape,

so that straight edges abut, and neck side edges

align with head side edges, etc. Finally . . . 

. . . position and attach head half side over head base

where side curved edges align. Position . . .

. . . and attach the hair shape along top of head assembly.

5. Assemble the glengarry cap by layering and

attaching the cap shape over the cap/flashes base,

then attach rim accent and tassel accent,

and finally place the medallion circle to the flashes

side of middle, overlapping the brim trim very slightly.

(See step 6F for assembled shape.)

6. Assemble the components onto silhouette:

A) boots, skirt and sporran on top of skirt;

NOTE: please pay attention to the description

MORE than the images here - - -

B) position and attach bagpipes base 

(with bag main shape in place -

NOT as shown in this image) but leave

narrow neck end of bag unattached at this point;

C) sleeves shape OVERLAYING the bag of pipes assembly 

(this image wrongly shows jacket sleeve under the bag) . . .

. . . then place the jacket bodice on top of sleeves

shape where it matches the silhouette,

and swing the left sleeve wrist area over

the bodice shape as shown here - attach only sleeves

(figure's) right side and bodice, leaving wrist

area of left sleeve unattached 'til later.

D) place tartan sash across assembly and under

the unattached left sleeve and bag narrow neck 

as shown;

E) position and attach the head/neck assembly

over silhouette where shape edges align;

F) position and attach cap.

G) position mouthpiece on top of assembly,

with top end centered under nose where

implied mouth should be, and angling so that

the knuckle aligns on top of the knob of bag shape,

and glue in place;

H) position hand shapes abutted at ends of

respective sleeve shapes, with finger/knuckle

ends overlapping the mouthpiece pipe

to suggest they are covering wind holes

of instrument.

7. Position and attach the completed

silhouette shape on top of the offset

base shape, with even margin around

the edges of figure - except where

the base shape arches between pipes.

8. Arrange and attach ribbon/twine cockade

decoration at punch hole end as desired.

Nordic Star Cross Stitched Tag

Cross stitch embroidery is completed on the doubled 

hole-punched scalloped tag panel, then it is 

sandwiched with optional stitching buffer layer, 

frame accent, frame front and whole back layers in 

a sturdy keepsake gift tag for Christmas or winter giving. 

Add oblong reinforcement ring accents on front and back. 

If desired, hand pen a contrast ink message 

at top of tag, or use the provided plaque shape 

to pen or stamp a name or greeting. 

Measures approx. 2.625” wide x 3.75” assembled. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A cross stitch hole punch layer (2 for stability)

B buffer back layer for stitching panel

C front "contrast" frame panel

D front accent panel

E solid back accent panel

F slot "ring" reinforcements (2)

G sentiment plaque or print & cut panel

2. Prepare the stitching panels by poking out any

cut waste (chad) shapes that remain following cutting

and removal from cut mat. A useful tool for this is

a standard paper clip that is un-bent.

3. Layer and attach together the two stitching panels,

taking extra care - here and throughout - to align

all cut edges as precisely as possible.

Press the glued-up panel unit under a flat heavy object

such as this thick book, or equivalent - or place

a second heavy object on top of the book - to help

the panel stack dry flat, minimizing warping or

curling caused by liquid adhesive. 

4. Assemble the stitching supplies, including choice

of star color 6 ply floss, tapestry needle size 24/26.

5. Study the chart below to understand how multiple

stitches in rows are stitched efficiently across,

completing right slant stitches of the 'X' stitch first,

then at the end of the row, reversing the process

to complete left slant stitches. This is essential

to create a uniform front appearance, with neat back.

6. Cut a 30-36" length of floss from the skein, then

separate one at a time two plies from the length.

7. Line up all four ends of the two plies, forming looped

length . . . 

. . . then smooth along the length away from ends

to refine the loop end. Thread the loop end through

the eye of the needle. (Ends can likewise be threaded

through eye, but double ply loop is sometimes easier.)

Pull loop through to leave a 5-6" tail at cut ends.

8. Working from a printed copy or referring to the design

chart on screen, locate the lower left star point 'X' stitch

(left-handed stitchers may wish to reverse this). 

 NOTE it is easiest to work the design from bottom to top.)

A. Insert the needle from back to front in the top left

position of the 'X' set of four holes . . . 

. . . and pull thread through to front, leaving

a short loop on backside.

B. Insert the needle again into lower right hole

to complete the first right slant . . . 

. . . and pull the thread through within pulling

the loop on backside.

C. Pass needle and thread through the loop . . .

. . . and pull up to tighten loop flat against backside.

(This is the anchor-on process.)

9. If this was a regular row with multiple stitches,

the right slant stitches would be completed across

the row, followed by the left slant stitches returning.

The star point is a single stitch, so the needle is inserted

UP through the hole above the immediately-previous 

down-insertion, and thread pulled through completely.

Complete the left slant stitch by inserting needle tip

into the bottom left hole of the 'X', and pull thread through.

10. Move up to next row, to insert needle through

top left hole of first set of four holes that will hold

the 'X' at beginning. Complete the two right slant

stitches of that row, then . . . 

. . . move back to the left to complete the two

left slant stitches that complete the 'X' stitches.

11. Move up to the next row as for the second row,

and complete the first three right slant stitches,

THEN jump across the space to work the mirror image

"right half" right slant stitches of this third row . . . 

. . . but at the end of row, instead of returning back

with completing left slant stitches, move downward

to complete the second and first rows . . . 

. . . of the bottom right star point, adapting where 

needle is inserted as needed.

After working down, return to left end of

row three to complete the left slant stitches.

12. Move up to complete the fourth rows, adding

the "floating" single stitches as ends . . .

. . . jumping

across (on backside of work) as needed to complete

both halves of stitching according to the chart.

13. As the thread on the needle gets used up,

work the final stitch that is possible while leaving a few

inches to manipulate needle, ending with needle

to the backside.

Slide the needle under several stitch backs . . .

. . . pull needle through fully, then trim the thread

next to the panel surface. Re-thread and continue.

14. Tie on as described earlier, then continue to follow

chart to complete the rows in same manner.

Here is the completed stitching panel.

15. Position and attach the buffer layer onto

backside of stitched panel, aligning outer edges.

NOTE: this layer provides a bit of depth around

the raised stitching.

16. Position and attach the "contrast" (sample has

this panel matched to stitching panel) frame panel

over stitching panel ensemble.

17. Position and attach the contrast front frame

panel with outer edges and slot matched.

18. Position and attach solid back panel

on backside of assembly.

19. Position and attach the reinforcement accents

onto front and back of assembled tag. 

20. Prepare sentiments panel with penned

of stamped words, or follow prescribed procedure

for printing and cutting the "winter wishes" panel.

Position and attach between top of frame and

bottom of reinforcement ring.

21. If desired, decorate with ribbon and tied twine.