Showing posts with label soup can pull tabs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label soup can pull tabs. Show all posts

Sunday, January 1, 2017

Snowflake Pull Tab Card


Create a hanging ornament 
or a unique card by assembling 
this shaped card with only 3-4 cut shapes 
(when using metal tabs). 
Six soup can pull tabs are center "embellishment", 
stitched in place with soft twine or 
perle cotton/floss to the flake overlay. 
Punch holes nearer flake edge on card front 
provide position guide for crystal jewels. 
Back card has perforation in upper portion 
to allow it to bend back to reveal the sentiment space. 
Hang from top hanger hole, 
or tie decorative ribbon lengths. 
Measures approx. 6.5x6.5 when finished. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A card base front
B card base back (includes perforations at top)
C snowflake base
Not shown: sentiment panel (see step 18)
Also shown: 6 aluminum soup can pull tabs
2. Prepare card base back by bending forward
on upper perforation line.
3. Position and attach the top panel of the
base back to the backside of the front card base
(back to back), taking care that cut edges
align as exactly as possible.
4. Identify the top of the snowflake by locating
the 'O' spoke that is cut off slightly
(to accommodate the hole punch at top).
5. Prepare soup can pull tabs by using pliers
or similar tool to clamp across the bottom portion
to ensure tabs are flat and that any ragged edges
are flattened as much as possible.
6. Position and invisibly attach each of 6 pull tabs 
under the 'O' arm so that the needle holes 
remain visible at inner and outer tab edges.
Use a quick grab adhesive such as Fabri-Tack
or hot glue.
7. Prepare to add stitches by threading a 24" length
of 6-ply embroidery floss, no. 5 perle cotton, or
soft twine into a blunt end tapestry style
needle.
Anchor tail end with a small piece of cello tape
near beginning hole, on the backside of
the snowflake shape.
8. Insert the needle and twine through the first
hole (inside top was selected for sample)
and pull twine through completely.
9. Insert needle into the hole across the tab,
and pull needle and twine through to the back.
10. Move down same side of first tab and insert
needle into inner lower hole, and draw twine
through completely.
11. Insert needle into the hole between the two
adjacent tabs, and pull twine completely
through to the back.
12. Move to the adjacent tab, and insert the
needle up through the lower inner hole,
and draw the twine through completely
to the front.
13. Complete the second tab lower holes stitch
by inserting the needle into the same hole
between the two tabs, and draw the twine
through to the backside completely.
14. Continue in the same efficient fashion to work up
then down, etc., to complete twine stitches
that "wrap" over the tab structure, completing
all stitches, with final stroke pushing needle 
to the backside of the snowflake.
15. On the backside, trim away excess twine
leaving approx. 3/4" tail. Secure in place
with small piece of cell tape.
16. Position and attach snowflake (with tabs)
on top of the card base front,
placing the center top (shorted arm) arm
at center top of the card base,
under the hang hole.
17. Add jewels and embellishments
as desired. Shown here are clear jewels
placed over the punch holes at the center
of the 'O' spaces.
18. Position and attach the sentiment panel
on the inside (back) of card assembly.
19. Add ribbon lengths or bow through
the top hang hole as desired.

Wednesday, December 14, 2016

Vintage Ornament Pull Tabs A7 Card

Re-purpose soup can pull tabs 
(or use the equivalent shape provided )
to embellish the center of this shaped ornament. 
Lacing holes through accent shapes allow them 
to be "stitched" into place (discretely glued first). 
Additional "stitching" punch holes allow 
for more embellishments 
Underlay shapes allow for contrast options. 
Back card includes perforation fold line near top 
so that it can bend away to reveal 
sentiment space for optional inner writing shape. 
Top "loop" allows this card to actually be hung 
as an ornament, or just tie with ribbon.  
Card can fit into a 5x7 (A7) envelope. 

NOTE ABOUT SOUP CAN PULL TABS:
the tabs used for this design came from
Campbell's soups. Swanson and
other brands have equivalent tab shapes.
Compare the sample cut faux tab shape
if you have questions about fit to the stitch punches.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main card front base
B card back base
C optional back middle reinforcement layer
D card front "silhouette" for assembly of shapes
E hanger collar
F top strata accent shape (with tiny accent circle)
G back "show thru" for F circle punches
H center strata for pull tabs lacing
I lower strata with embroidery punches
J back "show thru" for teardrops of I
K back "show thru" for dashes of I
2. Prepare the B back base by bending between
the lower and upper portions on the
perforation line.
If desired, position and attach the back
middle reinforcement layer (C) above
the perf line, matching cut edge as
exactly as possible. Then . . .
. . . position and attach the card base front (A)
over the back B & C assembly above
the perforation line ONLY.
3. Position and attach the K show thru shape
on the I backside so that cut edges that
should align do so as accurately as possible
and the K shape color shows thru the dash
accent windows.
4. If completing the embroidery on the
lower strata (I), thread a 20" to 22" length of
floss or twine (sample uses metallic silver)
onto a darning needle and anchor the tail
end with a small piece of cello tape on the
back side near one end.
5. Insert needle and floss through the end hole,
pull the floss carefully but completely through
to the front side.
Insert the needle into the next hole in the
succession of hole punches, and draw the
floss completely through to the back.
This is the first stitch.
6. Insert the needle from the back to the front
in the next open punch hole, pull floss through,
then insert into the next open hole front to back
and draw the floss to the backside.
This is the second stitch.
7. Continue in this fashion to complete
all the stitches across the shape until . . .
. . . there is a line of alternating stitches
and punch holes as shown here.
The floss should be exiting the last hole
on the backside.
8. Repeat the process going back toward the first
punch hole, inserting the needle and floss into
the alternate punch holes to complete
the line of stitching and fill in the "spaces"
remaining from the first pass.
9. The pass is complete when the final space
has been completed by a stitch and the floss
is existing toward the backside as shown here.
Clip the excess floss and tape the end
invisibly on the backside, similar to the manner
that the tail from the start was anchored.
10. Position and attach the contrast J shape
behind the lower shape to show thru the
tear drop window cuts, side edges aligned.
11. Position and attach the completed lower strata
shape over the assembly shape D with
edges that align matched as exactly 
as possible.
12. Prepare to position and glue-tack 
the pull tabs over the middle strata shape H
by studying this illustration to see how the
lacing holes can act as guides for the
positioning. NOTE that the holes roughly
line up at the tab edges and openings,
but may be partially covered by tabs.
Position the five tabs (begin with center tab)
and attach with quick grab glue such as
Fabri-Tack or hot melt glue.
13. Thread a 24" length of perle cotton, 
6-ply floss or twine (will be called "yarn")
onto a tapestry needle.
Anchor the end on the shape's backside with
a small piece of cello tape.
14. Insert the needle through the top end hole
and pull yarn through to front completely.
Insert the needle into the nearest hole so
that the yarn will cross the tab structure
and pull needle and yarn through to 
the backside. This is the first stitch.
15. Complete the second stitch by inserting
the needle from backside in the next hole across,
and pull yarn through completely.
Then insert the needle in the next closest hole
which will be slightly above the tab structure
to create a stitch that wraps over the structure
on a slight angle as shown here.
This is the second stitch.
16. Continue the process by inserting the needle
into the next hole which will be within the
next tab . . .
. . . then insert the needle into the previous
"down stitch" hole to complete the inverted V stitch.
17. Continue creating the inverted V stitch pairs
across the assembly to lace the top area of
tabs in place onto the shape.
Here is the completed top shape, including
the opposite end single stitch.
18. Move to the lower row of stitches to complete
a modified V stitch through the pair of end holes . . .
. . . then complete the row with similar stitches
to the top row, this time as upright V stitches.
The final end is a modified V stitch pair like
the first end.
19. With the yarn exiting through final hole
to backside of the work, trim excess leaving
a 3/4" tail, and anchor invisibly with a small
piece of cello tape.
20. Position and attach (use appropriate adhesive
matched to the weight) the middle strata
assembly onto the assembly silhouette,
fit snugly above the I shape.
21. Prepare the upper strata shape F by
positioning and attaching the contrast G
strip behind the lower row of punch holes.
22. Position and attach to the assembly
fit snugly above the H shape edge.
23. Position and attach the accent collar
shape.
Position the contrast punch circle into
the circle opening at center top of F.
25. Position and attach the card front
assembly onto the card base front A,
centered, with edges offset slightly.
26. Position and attach the message shape
centered on the inside surface of B.
If desired, us "print and cut" features to
include a printed sentiment.
27. Attach decorative lengths of
ribbon through the loop.