Monday, February 18, 2019

Gable Marquee and Monthly Hang Cards

Build this gable-shaped, rimmed display board. 
At front are a pair of hexagon 5/16” card stock 
wrapped pegs that can hold a year’s worth of “hang cards” 
to celebrate each season or holiday. 
Pedestal stand consists of a  3/4” diameter dowel 
wrapped post tube with added contours that fits 
securely onto two-level base, and extends upward 
through marquee body to be secured with 
structural reinforcements inside.  
Measures approx. 14.5” tall and 4.5" deep at base. 
Display board is 7” wide x 9.25” tall x 1.5” deep” when completed. 
Twelve monthly hang card designs, 
along with word cuts and tags, 
are available as separate designs. 

Shown here are all twelve of
the "Marquee Monthlies" hang cards.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main front hull   B & C side rim panels
D bottom rim panel    E top gable rim panel
F & G lace panel overlays
H base (back) hull    I posts for hang cards (2)
J top triangle interior brace and dowel anchor
K rectangle upper support reinforcements (2)
L mid section cross brace
M stand base   N accent overlays
O stand base boxing extension (1) & accents (6)
P bottom anchor collar (6-8)
Q base hexagon build up (8)
R post wrap tube   S base mid platform
T contour tube   U "petal" collar connectors (2)
Not shown: "turned bead" contour shape for post
NOTE: the following images for the pedestal portion
of this tutorial are borrowed from a similar project
and coloration of sample shown will NOT
represent the model for the marquee stand.

2. Prepare the base anchor collar build up by
layering and joining the hexagon shapes,
one by one, taking care that all cut edges line
up as precisely as possible, particularly
the interior hexagon opening.
Use a flat weight placed on top of the layered stack
to press during the drying process to help prevent
warping or curling.
3. Layer and attach the base hexagon shapes
in same manner, using a flat weight to press
the stack flat during drying.
4. Prepare the main base by bending back on all
panels, flanges and tabs perforation lines
for main and extension shapes.
5. Join the extension onto the main shape at
boxing end tab.
6. Position and attach the accent overlays onto
the top panel and the boxing side panels.
7. Position the base collar build up shape onto
the backside of the stand base bottom panel,
using the guide cuts there help align outer hex
corners so the collar is centered accurately.
8. Form the boxing strip of base into a ring to
join final side seam.
9. Bend bottom side wall flanges inward.
Bend the bottom panel into position to align
hex edges with side wall flanges.
Flip the assembly bottom down onto flat surface
to apply fingertip pressure along flanges
from inside the hex box.
10. Prepare the smaller base shape by bending back
on all panels, flanges and tab perforation lines,
except NOTE that three of the bottom "tabs" shapes
are actually SUPPORTS which are NOT bent back.
11. Form the base boxing into a ring to align
and join the boxing side seam. 
12. Bend the top side flange tabs inward,
then bend the top panel down, adjust for alignment,
then join each hex edge to side wall flange.
NOTE that it will be helpful to turn the shape top down
on flat surface and apply fingertip pressure inside
to help attach the flanges securely.
13. Prepare the contour tube shape by bending
back on all panels, side and bottom tabs and
upper edge wedge tabs on perforation lines.
14. Bend the top sections back to align the straight
side edge overlapped to the adjacent wedge tab
perf line and join the seams across the top of shape.
15. Form the shape into a tube to align
and join the side seam, and complete the final
top wedge tab seam.
16. Insert contour bottom tabs and support flanges
into smaller platform top slots and push into place fully.
On underside, bend back tabs
and glue in place to secure.
17. Insert the bottom tabs of second platform
into the main base top panel slots.
On underside of top panel, bend back only
the three tabs with perforation lines, and
glue in place.
18. Position the bottom side of main platform base,
centered, onto the top of the layered hexagon base,
and glue in place securely.
19. Prepare the post tube by bending back on
all long perforation lines for segments and flange.
Form the shape into a tube to bring straight side edge
to overlap the flange to perforation line opposite.
NOTE: it may be helpful to use the uncut 3/4" dowel
as an inserted form to help press against to join seam.
20. Cut the 3/4" wood dowel to length of 14.125".
NOTE that this is a few inches longer than the 11.75"
tall tube wrap. Dowel intentionally will extend above top
 of tube (see step 48 for actual image of dowel in tube). 
Insert dowel cut length,
match bottom edges of each and glue in place.
21. Insert the post assembly
(NOTE this project does NOT include taller dowel)
through the contour tube opening, through smaller
platform and . . . 
. . . out bottom beyond top platform panel.
22. Apply glue at edges inside the collar hex collar,
then . . . 
. . . onto flanges. Bend top platform and post assembly
down into position to adjust edges and join to flanges.
Also, push post bottom edges to fit snugly into
collar hex opening, then apply pressure to secure all.
23. Prepare the "bead" contour shape by bending
back on all perforation lines for panels, end tabs,
and upper, lower "petal" tabs.
24. Form the shape into a tube to join side seam,
then bend upper edges inward . . . 
. . . to overlap and align each short seam around
upper and lower edges.
25. Thread the bead shape over the top of the post,
and move down . . . 
. . . until it seats on top of the contour upper edges.
Glue the bottom petals to attach to contour,
and top edges to attach to post.
26. Prepare the main marquee box by bending
back on all side panels and end seam tabs.
27. Repeat for the back marquee box.
28. For back box (shown) and front box, bend sides
and top inward to overlap straight edge to perf lines
and join all seams.
29. Prepare the two peg wrap shapes by bending
back on all long perforation lines, end tabs and hex
lid,  bottom tabs.
30. Form the shape into a tube, overlap straight
edge to perf line of side flange and join side seam.
Use the uncut 5/16" dowel as inserted form
to help join seam.
(Complete two pegs.)
31. Slide dowel down so top end is even with
tab and lid perf lines, bend tabs inward, then
apply glue and bend hex lid down to glue in place.
32. Measure and mark length of dowel for pegs
to be even with folded-back bottom tabs.
Cut two dowel segments.
Insert segment into tube and glue in place.
33. Insert each peg through front hull hex openings
so they are at least half way through and park until later.
34. Prepare the triangle top support and post brace
by bending forward on panel perforation lines
and tabs.
35. Apply glue to side panels, bottom tab, then 
position under the gable, with side walls attached
to gable roof and ends snug at gable crest, and attach.
36. Prepare the rectangle supports by bending back
on section perforation lines, forward at tabs.
37. Form the support into a box to align and
attach end seam.
38. Position and attach each support inside base
hull, with peg circle position guide marks of hull
inside the top of the support box, and inward walls
out of the way of the center "channel" where the post
will be inserted.
39. Prepare the center cross brace by bending
all tabs foward.
40. Identify the guide marks on the back hull side walls
which mark the suggested positioning of brace.
Position the brace across the center of hull
and check for perpendicular, then attach end
tabs to side walls, bottom tabs to backside of main panel.
Here is the back hull with all supports in place.
41. Prepare the assemble front and back hull
together by applying glue to support tabs . . . 
. . . and outer panel faces of hull . . . 
. . . and to peg bottom tabs.
Position and slide front hull over back hull,
using a blade tool such as a spatula if necessary
to get walls into position, then . . . 
. . . press the front hull fully into position,
applying pressure to all locations that adhesive
was applied until secured.
Finally, push pegs down so that bottom tabs
rest against and attach to back hull inner wall.
Quickly check the vertical/perpendicular positioning
of pegs by using the hang card header or full card,
and adjust as necessary to ensure best peg positioning.
42. Prepare each of the rim shapes by bending back
on all long perforation lines that will form
the raised rim, AND bending the top flange forward.
NOTE that the gable (top) rim panel has a bend
at the center also.
Here are all the rim panels in position around
the hull assembly, as reference.
NOTE that the TOP of the side panels is
angled for the "miter" overlap.
43. Prepare to join the first (right side shown) rim panel
onto the hull by applying adhesive to the top flange . . . 
. . . and also to the side wall where it will attach
to the hull outer side walls, excluding the top margin
of approx. 1/4" where rim is raised above hull.
NOTE: these images show liquid glue, but if possible,
adhesive double-sided tape or other "dry" adhesive
is recommended to avoid warping or distortion.
Position the rim panel at hull side, with bottom
edges even, and attach sides . . .
. . . applying pressure to join.
On front, position the inner/top flange
so that the inner rim wall is perpendicular
to the hull face (NOT pushed back too far).
Use a "squared" block such as this stamp block
to help push the walls into position, and
simultaneously apply pressure to attach flange
to hull face all along the flange.
Repeat for the opposite side rim panel.
44. Position and attach the bottom flange
in similar fashion, taking note that . . .
. . . bottom ends include the miter angle that
will overlap the side panel bottom corners.
45. Position and attach the gable rim panel,
with center crests aligned, and . . .
. . . overlapping center miter edge over "straight"
rim, and also overlapping side end miter angle edges
over side top squared up edges.
46. If the month name tags will be used,
hung with mini brad on side wall, use a razor point
to open the cut marks on rim panel, and corresponding
position on hull front wall (piercing through
base hull wall which does not have a cut).
Insert the brad ends through cut to ensure it is open.
(This image also shows the tag positioning
being previewed.)
47. Position and attach the lace panel overlays
onto the gable rims, centering the miter cut,
and aligning the top cut edge with rim edge.
48. Apply quick grab glue to post end, and also
in estimated locations of cross brace opening
and top support opening.
Insert the dowel end and post through bottom
opening of the hull, and thread it through 
the cross brace . . . 
. . .and through the top triangle support opening,
to (possibly) rest against the underside of gable.
Apply pressure to assist attachment of post tube
in place, taking care that post remains perpendicular
to hull (stand on base to make visual check, etc.).
49. Prepare the petal collar brackets by bending
back on vertical perf marks, and bending top
"petal" tabs forward.
50. Position first collar around top front of post
immediately under the hull, so that upper petals
attach to bottom panel of hull, and lower tabs
attach to each face of the post. 
Repeat for backside of the post.
To use with hang card, simply slip the header
hex openings over the pegs, taking care to
insert the card top corners under the overlays.
Here is the completed marquee stand
with the April hang card . . .
. . . side month tag.