Tuesday, March 9, 2021

Lamb Large Cross Stitch Tag

Create a unique gift tag with an “especially made for you” touch. 
Or adorn a seasonal card or embellish a scrapbook page. 
Traditionally shaped gift tag has top panel with ribbon slot 
(accepts .375” wide flat) and reinforcement ring, 
with pair of eyelet accent punch holes 
(shapes also included without eyelet holes). 
Complete the EASY cross-stitch design using 
2 ply embroidery floss with fine blunt no. 24 tapestry needle 
with floss colors: dark gray or black head and body outline, 
white or light gray body, green and burgundy garland, 
light pink heart outline. 
(NOTE: only design stitching holes are included). 
A stitchery area silhouette cutout buffer layer 
and solid layer are also included as optional layers for 
a more finished final project. 
Cross-stitch count: 298. Tag finished size: 2.5” wide x 4” long. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A main tag with stitching holes (2)
B stitching area cutout backside tag layer
C plain backside tag layer
D contrast tag top panels (2)   E slit reinforcements (2)
2. Make sure the stitching hole openings are free
from cutout waste (chads). One way to do this is
to use the end of a paperclip to push through to backside
then rub/scrape tiny "confetti" pieces away. 
(The next FOUR images are from similar bunny tag project.)
NOTE: my initial cutout of the stitching hole tag was done
using the new "deluxe long-lasting blade" which made
figure '6' cuts instead of completed circles for many of
the holes. When I changed to a standard fresh blade
for a later  cutting, the holes were round and complete.
Not sure if that would be someone else's experience,
but just a head's up in case that problem arises.
3. Position and glue together the two stitching layers,
taking care that all cut edges align as precisely
as possible, including stitching holes, eyelet holes,
slot and tag edges.
Press the glued-up tags under a flat heavy weight
such as this thick book or equivalent wood plank,
flat weights, etc. and allow to dry thoroughly
(for several hours or over night).
4. Position and attach the reinforcement accent shapes
onto the tag top accents, aligning the slot cut outs
of each as precisely as possible.
5. Prepare to begin stitching by assembling needles
and floss. This is the recommended needle type
and size: tapestry no. 24.
DMC floss was used for the model; select colors
of choice to coordinate with your paper choices.
Model colors: body outline 645 ; body filler 3866;
garland green 471; garland burgundy 3721;
pink heart 356.
6. Cut a 26-28" length of 6-ply floss, then separate
a single strand (shown is floss color from bunny project).
7. Loop the strand in half to bring the cut ends together.
8. Thread the loop end through the eye of 
the tapestry needle, then . . . 
. . . pull the double strand through to leave the cut ends
as the 4-5 inch 'tail', with the loop as the 'end'
of the stitching length.
9. Print out the stitching CHART or have ready access on screen.
10. These instructions will begin with the left leg
area of the design. Locate the first stitch on the leg's
bottom row - this is where the stitching will begin. Then
isolate the upper left stitching hole that will produce the first 'X'.
This is the hole where the needle will pass from backside
to frontside as stitching begins.
11. FIRST RULE OF CROSS-STITCHING:
create ALL stitches in same order direction.
That is, the "legs" of the 'X' need to be stitched
in the same manner throughout. For these instructions,
this will be: FIRST the 'right' slant
and SECOND the 'left' slant.



NOTE that the order presented in the above illustration
is optimum and may change slightly as stitching progresses
in order NOT to 'unstitch' previous stitches.

12. Insert the needle back-to-front in the hole identified in Step 10,
pull the floss through for just 5-6 inches, then . . . 
. . . immediately insert the needle front-to-back into
the bottom right hole of the first 'X' . . .
. . . and pull the needle
through to the backside, then . . . 
. . . pass the needle through the end loop . . .
. . . and pull the floss through the remainder of
the length, allowing the loop to slide into place
against the tag's backside and anchor the floss.
(This is how to begin each NEW length of floss,
and is referred to as "tying on".)
13. Regular stitching can now proceed.
Insert needle up in the next X stitch's top-left hole
(#3 in the illustration in Step 11), pull floss through
completely - taut but NOT tight.
Complete ALL of right slant stitches ACROSS the first row.
15. When the first row's left slant stitches are complete,
move UP to the next row, work across the right slant stitches,
then back across with the left slant stitches . . .
. . . and so forth,
until the left leg rows are complete. 
16. "Bridge" up and left to begin the body bottom outline
row, beginning ONLY where there are 4 holes
that will compose right and left slant stitches of
first 'X', (referring closely to the CHART,
then continue across to end of right leg 
stitch holes. Next . . .
. . . move down to complete the top leg's right slant
stitches. Continue downward, then return upward
as left slant stitches will be completed.
Back on body bottom row, continue to complete 
the right slant stitching to end, then . . . 
. . . return along the row to add the left slant stitches.
When the floss length gets used up, or when changing colors, 
it will be necessary to "tie off".
Tying off: with the needle on the backside of the work,
slide the needle under a few stitches of an adjacent row,
pull floss through completely, then clip even with tag surface
(this image is from a similar project).
NOTE: this is the same tying off procedure for 
any time stitching color is changed, 
or a new length of floss is required.
17. Complete cross stitches up the left side of body,
row by row. Follow CHART to add the "shoulder" area
stitches, leaving BLANK the spaces indicated.
Continue the "shoulder" row across the head to
the end of the row for the right "shoulder",
then return along the row to complete left slant stitches.

18. Move downward to complete the rows below
"shoulders" row that create the lamb's "muzzle".
19. Complete the 'gray' head, ears, and right side
outline by following the CHART and stitching procedures
as outlined. Add the stitches for neck garland, blossoms,
and heart outline, then fill in the body contrast stitches.
Be as neat as possible. Avoid long "bridge" passes
from one complete area to another by planning
to work back (often downward) to unstitched areas
with right slant stitches, then back up to active row
with left slant stitches as required.
Here is the tag completed, from the front, and . . .
. . . from the back. 
20. To make the tag's backside look nice, and buffer
the thickness of the stitching to avoid rippling at edges
where the layers need to come together when joining,
use the stitching shape glued in place on backside
 of stitched assembly, with outer cut edges, 
punch holes and slot edges matched precisely.
21. Position and attach the plain tag with openings
and side edges matched up precisely.
(Consider pressing under a flat heavy weight until dry.)
22. Position and attach the top accent assemblies,
one on front and optionally one on back.
Here is the completed tag, with eyelets,
ribbon threaded through slot,
tied with twine.

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