Binding Tutorial: Attaching, Miter Corner Turn & Splice

 This tutorial continues the binding instruction begun 

in "Binding Tutorial: Strip Cutting & Prep" post.

Step 1. Begin in a less-conspicuous place on a quilt edge, such as the lower right edge, about 8-10 inches from the bottom (less on smaller project). Open the binding, place face sides together with the quilt layers, and position the right edge fold on the 1/4" seam line. Skip down about 2-3 inches from the chisel-cut lead edge. Pin in place if necessary.

Step 2. Begin stitching, without back stitching, with needle piercing the fold of the binding. Stitch toward the first corner, but stop EXACTLY 1/4" from the opposite quilt side and back-stitch 2-3 stitches to lock .

Here you can see the stitching and back-stitching as the work is pulled away from the machine. Clip the threads close to fabric surface.

This image shows the binding folded back, exposing the quilt layers beneath. You can see that the stitching was stopped 1/4" from opposite quilt edge.

Step 3. Fold binding back, as shown, with unattached end EXACTLY on top of previous joined portion, then finger press the short fold at the end of the stitching. 

Step 4. Mark the "pivot" point - where the next side's stitching will begin. A length of binding must be "skipped" in order to allow binding length exactly at the corner for the width of the finished binding to create the miter fold.

Here, the seam gauge measures off 3/4", since in this example, the distance between the SEAMLINE folds of the binding equals 3/4". If a larger binding width is selected and prepared, the "skip" distance would be adjusted to match this distance.

Step 5. Insert a straight pin at the "pivot" mark, through the binding fold.

Step 5, cont. Now insert the straight pin at the intersection of the quilt edge 1/4" seam allowances. This should be the same place that the stitching approaching this corner was stopped and locked.

Slide the binding along the pin so it is snug to the quilt, arrange the binding length into position to stitch it along the second quilt edge, with the extra "tuck" of corner skipped binding making a neat fold.

Step 6. Begin the stitching for the second quilt side by inserting the needle exactly where the pin is holding the corner pivot mark. Remove the pin; stitch 2-3 stitches forward, back stitch to the corner, then stitch the length of the edge. As stitching progresses, continue to position the binding fold exactly on the 1/4" quilt edge seam line.

Stitch along the length of the second quilt edge. Repeat the process from Step 2: stop stitching at the 1/4" corner where seam lines cross, and lock by back-stitching 2-3 stitches.

Remove from machine; clip thread ends close.

Step 7. Repeat the corner "skip length" measure and marking, pin insertion, binding arrangement, etc. from Steps 4 & 5. Then begin and stitch binding to the third quilt side as in Step 6.

Repeat the corner process and stitching for the fourth side, and then again for the final corner, and for the part of the first quilt edge where binding has not yet been attached. Stop approximately 5" from the lead edge of the binding (see Step 1).

This image shows where the lead chisel end is in relation to where the stitching ends. You don't need to backstitch. Clip thread ends.

Step 8. Measure 9-10" beyond where stitching ends in Step 7 and trim away excess. In this photo you can see the straight-cut end of the final binding end as it was trimmed. 

Step 9. Arrange binding layers with lead end on top of final end, all excess length adjusted out so layers are smooth and even as they will be when finally stitched. Use a marking tool to trace along the chisel cut end of lead binding edge. 

Step 10. Move lead binding end out of the way. 

Use a see-thru ruler to mark a CUTTING line 1/2" beyond the line traced in Step 9. Make sure the new line EXTENDS the final end length - this is the seam allowance being added to the final end (1/4" plus 1/4" for the two ends to join). 

In this photo, the first line traced is UNDER the ruler, aligned with the 1/2" line of this 1" wide ruler.

Step 11. Trim excess of final end on the CUTTING line traced in Step 10.

 Step 12. Bring binding ends together, align cut edges, then arrange so that the 1/4" seam lines match up edge to edge. 

Step 12, cont. Note that edges will "offset" slightly, so that the angles created at binding long edges should be the position of the 1/4" seam lines.

Pin the ends together and pull them away from the quilt surface so the seam can be stitched. This will result in the folding of the quilt layers AWAY from the binding, and is the appropriate result needed to keep them free from this stitching.

When stitching is complete. trim away the "ears" corner points that can be seen in this photo at each seam end.

Step 13. Allow the binding and the quilt layers to re-align. They should now match up exactly, with no excess or lack in either. Carefully press the new binding seam open.

Step 14. Arrange remaining free binding so fold is on the 1/4" seam line. Complete stitching. Clip thread ends.

To see the final steps of the binding process, view

"Binding Tutorial: Finishing the Binding Second Edge" .

Binding Tutorial: Strip Cutting & Prep

Complete your quilt, large or small, with neat and secure edge binding. 

This Binding Tutorial demonstrates "single bias", and is presented in several parts: 1.) strip cutting and preparation; 2.) attaching, miter corner turn, and end connection splice, 3.) backside invisible stitching; 4.) double-layer bias differences.

The steps shown here use bias, "single" layer prep, emphasized by the pinstripe fabric. Straight-grain strips can also be used, with the only difference being a slight lack of mold-ability. If corners are rounded, bias will work better. Double-bias binding is a favorite choice as well, and prep differences can be viewed in a separate post on this blog.

Step 1. For bias, begin by finding the bias cutting direction. The fabric is placed on a large cutting mat with lengthwise grain placed vertically, crosswise grain on the horizontal. Take an upper corner, fold it over so that the grain-cut upper edge aligns with the vertical up/down fabric grain.

Establish that line by hand- or finger-creasing the resulting fold edge, then unfold.

Step 2. Using rotary cutter and ruled straight edge, make the first cut on the crease line.

Step 3. Determine how wide you want to cut your strips. For single bias using the red Clover bias tape maker as demonstrated here, I will cut scant 1 1/2" strips. (This allows for generous 1/4" seam allowances on both edges plus the scant 3/4" center portion that will be the visible binding.)

Determine the perimeter of your quilt, add about 10 extra inches for splicing strips together, corner turns and end connection. Cut the required strips for your quilt's edge.

Step 4. Join the cut strips end-to-end into one length. Bias strips (cut from grain-cut straight edged yardage) will already have the "chisel" slanted ends. To understand how they fit, lay two strips with the "matched" angle ends as shown on top, with face sides UP on the work surface. Next, lift and turn over the right strip and lay short cut ends together. Adjust up or down so that the tiny angle at top and bottom where strip edges cross is 1/4" in from the cut ends.

Step 5. Use regular machine stitch length to stitch across the end. If adjusted properly, stitching will intersect seam ends where the strips cross. Repeat until all strips are joined. 

Step 6. Press the seams open. Trim away "ears" - seam allowance extensions that extend beyond strip edges. 

Step 7. Fold the edges in to prepare the binding. This photo shows the 3/4" (approx.) finished "flat" size that works for quilt edges that have 1/4" edge seam allowances & thin batt enclosed. When folded, the binding will be about 3/8" on the front and 3/8" on the back side. 
Work on ironing surface. To use the bias tape maker, insert the point into the large end (shown here on the left end) by the handle. Use a straight pin inserted in the top slot to push the strip through until enough of the tip comes out the end so it can be finger-pulled for remaining process.

Use a medium hot iron to press the extending end so that the folds created by the 'maker are creased flat. As the iron holds the tip in place, slide the 'maker a couple of inches along, pause and press the strip to catch the iron up to the 'maker. Repeat until the entire length is pressed. 

As an alternative to using a bias tape maker, cut a strip of manila or other similar weight cardstock to form the fabric strip around. Cut the strip the "finished size" center width desired. For this demo, the width of the strip would be 3/4", similar to the size this bias tape maker prepares.


Lay the strip down the center on the backside of the strip. Hold the strip in place as you use the edge of the iron to fold the strip edge over the card stock. Fold and press both fabric edges along the length of card stock strip, then move strip to the next unfolded portion.  Leave a short length of pressed fabric section folded in place strip end to help hold it in place . 

To continue the binding process, click here to go to the post on this blog entitled

 "Binding Tutorial: Attaching & Miter Corner Turn.