Dimensional display for bee lovers features
a two-part fit-together egg form with contrast “yellow”
double-section overlays to form 3 stripes.
Hexagon post with cut-to-size 1/4" wooden dowel insert
allows the bee form to hover above the scalloped base layers,
anchored in a small box with built-up anchor stack concealed inside.
Spiral "spring" shape gives illusion that bee is flying.
Pair of heart wings attached with brad accent,
and curly antennae add final details.
Measures approx. 4.75” tall
(also includes a longer post for a 6.25” tall version)
with 4.5” diameter base.
ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A front body dome (lower)
B front body dome (upper) with attached decagon "lid"
C back body dome (lower)
D back body dome (upper) with attached decagon "lid"
E, F & G front, middle & back stripe overlays (5 each)
H antennae pair fronts and backs
I & J upper and lower wings
K & K post anchor stacks (6-7 for each of 2)
L post support "box" M post wrap
N base scallop accent (contrast top layer)
O base scallop top layer
P base scallop build up layers (6)
2. Prepare the post anchor build up stacks by
layering the cut shapes and attaching together,
taking care to align all cut edges as precisely
as possible. Create two stacks of 6-7 shapes each.NOTE: it will be helpful to press each stack assembly
under a heavy flat object such as this fabric-covered
re-purposed free weight, or something similar,
until liquid glue is completely dry, to reduce or
eliminate warping or curling of the stack.
3. Layer the scallop circle base, with the smaller
top layer first attached (centered) on main base
scallop top layer, then position and attach remaining.
Use flat weight to press this assembly until it is fully dry.
NOTE: this may require several hours.
4. Prepare the half dome shapes by bending back
on all perforation lines, including . . .
. . . the tiny wedge tabs
between the sections . . .
. . . which may be best creased by bending
adjacent sections back out of the way, the
pinching along the perforation line to crease
all along, including down to the cross seam
that defines that segment edge at bottom.
(Precision creasing at this point is helpful.)5. Join each of the seams by bending back
the lowest unattached segments of the seam
to overlap the straight edge (on right as shown here)
over tab (left) to perforation line, then glue in place.
Repeat for the next segment, and . . .
. . . and third segment and top segment.
Repeat the seaming process for each of the seams
between sections on all dome halves.
6. Align the front halves along the joining seam edges
and repeat the process for aligning straight edge
overlapping adjacent tab to perf line, and join,
including the inward segment (where this image
begins the process).
7. Repeat for the opposite side seam to complete
the dome assembly. Bend the front decagon "lid"
into position, (see step 9 for back dome as ref.)
adjust so that edges align at top tab
perforation lines, and join. It may be helpful
to apply pressure from inside.
8. Repeat the wedge section seaming process for
the back half dome sections . . .
. . . aligning and joining the half seams in
same manner to complete the back dome.
9. Bend back end decagon "lid" into position,
adjust and attach.
10. Use a rounded tool like this spatula handle end
to push the interior wedge tabs of the front half dome
at bottom inward.11. Bend each stripe overlay back at center perforation line.
Get familiar with how stripe overlays will be
positioned, with front, middle and back stripes
positioned on their own "strata" of the domes.
Shown here, the mid bottom stripe with hex cutout
is positioned over matching strata of front dome with
the perforation aligning with seam, and attached in place.
12. Continue to complete the middle stripe by
positioning the other overlaps around the dome.
(Paper thickness may affect how the stripes fit;
scissor trim any excess at end edges.)
* * * * *
NOTE that the center TOP overlay
that will eventually be positioned, will be left off
until post is in place.
13. In similar manner, position and attach the front
stripe overlays all around, using the large slotted overlay
at the panel where antennae slots pair are located.
14. Repeat for the back stripe overlays,
positioned and attached on the back dome as shown.
15. Prepare the antennae pair by bending the end
tabs forward, then layer the reversed left and right pair . . .. . . back to back and glue together, leaving
the end tabs free.
16. Straighten end tabs so they are flat again,
then insert through the body slot for the appropriate
antennae (they should curl outward when in
the correct position).17. On the inside of the front dome, spread the end tabs
again and glue each in place to dome backside.
18. Repeat for the other antennae to insert,
and glue tabs in place.
19. Apply glue to the back dome inward segments
all around, then insert into the open end of
front dome, taking care that the top and bottom
panels are lined up appropriately, and carefully
work the two ends together until fully inserted,
and apply pressure to join all edges.
20. Prepare the post tube strip by bending backalong each of the long perforation lines.
NOTE: there is a shorter post (as shown in finished image)
and a taller post available: choose the one your prefer.
21. Form the post shape into a tube to overlapthe straight long side edge over the opposite flange
to perforation line and glue in place . . .
. . . working finger pressure up and down the edge
until all is secure.NOTE: this will be easiest if the 1/4" wooden dowel
is used as a form, wrapping the strip around,
overlap edges and gluing as described.
22. Bend top end tabs outward, slide the tube to be even
at the end of dowel, then . . .
. . . mark the opposite edge of tube, then
remove the dowel and cut to size at mark.
Insert the dowel piece into tube . . .
. . . and apply glue to dowel, slide tube to be even at ends.
23. Position and attach the first support stack
on the front side of the accent scallop circle shape
that includes the slots.
"Audition" how the post will fit into the support collar
and base, if desired (but wait to attach til later).
24. Build the support "box" by bending back
on all perforation lines.
NOTE: it may be helpful to keep insertion tabs unbent
at perforations until inserted into base slots.
25. On backside of support box, position one post
stack so that the hexagon openings of each
line up as precisely as possible, and glue in place.26. Form the support box shape by bending adjacent
sides back so that the tab is tucked in and
the straight edge of one side overlaps tab to perf line.
Glue this side seam, and remaining three.
27. Position the support box over the front of
the scallop circle base shape so that tabs will fit
into the slots.
Insert slots and then . . .. . . turn to backside to bend tabs outward and
glue each in place.
28. Position the post/scallop circle accent assembly
onto the top of the base scallop assembly,
center and adjust as necessary, then glue together.
bottom hex hole wedge flanges are opened.
guide it through the body cavity, then . . .
. . . adjust until it appears at top body opening.
Push through, bend tabs outward, then slide back
so that post tabs can glue to the top outside body.
30. Position and attach the final middle stripe overlay.
31. Prepare the spiral by bending forward the tiny
lead tab and middle tab.
Position the tab at the half-circle cut-out . . .
. . . and glue the tab in place onto
the accent scalloped circle.
31. Apply glue inside the support box to the support
collar depression, and . . .. . . to the sides of post (or JUST to the latter),
then . . .
. . . insert the post end through support box opening,
through to support collar depression, then . . .. . . apply pressure and hold in place
until it is firmly attach in upright position.
32. Gently raise the middle spiral tab, position
on the post (just below body for SHORT post;
approx. 3/4" to 1" for TALL), and glue tab in place.
33. Layer the heart-shaped wings, matching
centers and circle punch, and glue together
along centers (and more if desired).34. Position on top of body with punch holes aligned,
and glue in place.
Insert and attach mini brad with glue.
Here is the completed (short version) 3D Bee.