Chunky 3d Star Assembly Guide

Build five simple star point boxes 

(open bottomed with glued-on cover), 

add overlay panels for "flag" stars & stripes configuration 

(or use whole point shape for all overlays), 

then "lace" the points together for a display star 

for a patriotic event or decor. 

Star measures approx. 10.5"  wide x 10" tall x 1.5" deep. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A star point boxing (side) right (5)
B star point boxing (side) left (5)
C star point front (5)   D interior support "tube" (5)
E star point back (5)
F star front accent shapes
(grouped to cut together as svg file opens to 
assist with cutting as "continuous" pattern;
see Step 12)

PREPARE 5 POINT UNITS

 (following steps 1-11)

2. Prepare the left and right boxing - or side panels -

of star point by bending side flange tabs back,

top or bottom tabs back, and bend at the middle

cross perforation line, as shown.

3. Join the left and right sections by overlapping

the plain top edge of the right strip over the top tab

perforation line of the left section, adjust and

glue seam.

4. Complete the bottom point seam in similar fashion

by overlapping the left bottom plain edge over

the right bottom tab to perforation line, adjust,

and glue seam.

5. Push the point boxing into relatively final shape,
with top flange tabs bent at right angles to walls,
and apply glue to the tabs. Take care to add glue
to the very tips of the points, especially top & bottom.

6. Position point front over the tabs, line up all

edges with side perforation corners, and glue in place.

Take care that lacing punch holes lines up - 

here and throughout the assembly.

NOTE: adjust the shape of the point boxing (sides)

by pushing sides inward or outward for a precise

match to the front point shape.

During the gluing process, turn the point face down
on flat surface, and insert fingertips pressure . . . 

. . . or tool pressure from along each tab to assist with
secure joining.

7. Prepare the interior support strip by bending

back on all perforation lines.

8. Shape the strip into a "tube" form to bring

the plain straight side edge to overlap the

opposite side tab to perf line, adjust top and

bottom so that edges match, and glue seam.

9. Apply adhesive to the wall corners, and to the

top cut edges . . .

. . . flatten the tube to fit into the point's 

back opening . . .

. . . insert completely until top is flush
with the backside of the point's front shape,
then . . .

. . . open tube into its roughly square form
with corners touching upper and lower
angled wall backsides.

Before glue grabs, adjust the position or

shape of the support "tube" to ensure

that the punched lacing holes will be

free from interference.

Lift the back tabs and apply a few dabs of

glue to back corners of support tube,

then replace tabs and apply pressure

to join to top of support.

(NOTE: Continue onto the next step

before glue dries completely.)

10. Position point back over the opening,

align edges with boxing perforation edges,

making adjustments to point shape as necessary

for precise match, and glue in place.

As part of the gluing process, it may be helpful
to insert a flat tool such as this spatula
behind the back point shape and the tab to which
it is attaching in order to apply finger pressure
from the outside, for a secure join all around.

11. Apply glue to the back shape "frame",

then position, adjust and attach the back cover shape.

12. Position and attach the accent shapes

to each point front.

If your design includes the stars & stripes coloration,

it may be helpful to place the points into their final

positions, then lay the accent shapes on top.

PATTERN MATCHING: To make the stripes panels

and/or the stars panels print patterns match up

as if cut "whole", leave the shapes from the cut file

grouped together with arranging on cutting mat

prior to cutting. Cut, then remove shapes carefully

in order to be able to position on the appropriate point.

Position and attach each accent front panel

onto assigned point box.

13. LACING: for inner holes, cut a 1 yard length of twine.
For outer holes, cut 1 1/2 yard length.
Anchor twine end (1.5-2 inch tail) on backside 
of first point box with temp tape such as masking tape.
Thread lead end onto a long darning needle or
4" doll needle (shown here).
Insert needle through inner end hole on back,
push through the interior of the box to exit
through corresponding hole on the front of box.
(NOTE this may be a patience-requiring process;
use the side wall hole punches to view & adjust the
needle point position so it can exit the opposite hole.)
Pull twine through completely.

14. Position second point box next to first.

Insert needle and twine through adjacent hole,

through interior and out the back at corresponding

hole.

15. Move to the closest back hole across the point
of second point, insert needle through to front,
and pull twine through completely.

As indicated by pointing finger, the stitch that
should be produced by the lacing travels perpendicular
 across the edges of the two touching point boxes.

16. Continue this stitch lacing around the inner
point holes to connect the remaining three points.
Un-tape lead end, tie off ends in a secure knot,
and trim ends short.

17. Secure the touching panels of all points

by applying quick-grab glue between, then

applying pressure until secure.

18. Repeat the lacing process to add the lacing

stitches at the outer pairs of holes.

Tie off on the back

Here is  the completed chunky star.

Nativity Scene Box Card Construction Guide

Create this miniature and dimensional

nativity scene as a card that can fold flat to send,

then "pop out" to use as a seasonal decoration.

Three bridges place the manger with baby Jesus,

Mary, and Joseph at different depths

for a realistic perspective.

Post and rail partitions decorate the side flaps,

straw or hay spills from the top of the front flap

with delicate "O Holy Night" letter cutout.

Back panel is a see-thru stable with star and star burst.

Cut file is (soon) available from

SnapDragonSnippets.com, 

and Silhouette America's online store.

ASSEMBLY:

1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A box card base

B front accent panels in position

C back section overlay (cut 2 sets, optional)

D stable roof with star and burst layers

E front flap overlay with O Holy Night cutout

F side flap overlays with rails

G hay assembly with base and pieces

H Baby Jesus figure with bridge strip

I May figure with bridge strip

J Josph figure with bridge strip

2. Position and attach front box accent panels, and optional backside stable overlay with roof.

3. Assemble the hay unit. NOTE that this sample has the BASE hay shape cut from color 1 darkest tan, four spikes from color 2 second darkest tan, three spikes cut from color 3 deep yellow, and two spikes cut from color 4 yellow. 

You may choose to use more colors.

Here you can see the final assembly. NOTE that some of the base shape (color 1) is still exposed.

4. Layer the side flap accent rail/post base shape with rails on top. Position these over the side flaps offset within the shaped edges of the flaps. Assemble the plaque shape with hay extended beyond perf line, and word cutouts on the card front flap.

NOTE that these shape assemblies are being attached to the backside of the card base, since the front side was where the shapes were attached in step 2 above.

5. Layer the star beam base and accent shape offset centered over the top.

6. Position the beam assembly behind the top of the back flap (stable and roof are the front, as well as being on the inside of the finished box). Glue in place.

7. Position and attach the layered star assembly over the front of the stable roof.

8. Form the box base (with all its assembly) into a tube to bring the side edge and flange tab perforation line together, apply glue to the tab, overlap straight edge to tab line and apply pressure until the seam is secure.

9. Fold bridge strip end tabs back. 

Assemble the figures over their base shapes. NOTE that Joseph's staff will be layered UNDER the robe, sleeve and hand.

10. Position and attach figures on their bridge strips, overlapping approx. 1/4" of lower figure edge at strip top. JOSEPH: left as far as possible, front of strip. MARY: right as far as possible behind strip. BABY JESUS: centered, with exposed base margin behind strip (manger lower edge will abut at strip edge).

11. OPTIONAL: for better visibility, consider careful inking of eye cutouts. Use fine stylus or push pin tip "dipped" into pen ink for baby.

12. With end tabs back, apply glue to tabs, then insert Mary bridge into box interior and CENTER it front-to-back. Press tabs to attach in place to box interior sides, and apply pressure to secure.

BEFORE glue is completely cured . . .

. . . fold the box assembly into its FLATTENED position and apply pressure in the area where the tabs are joined behind layers.

This allows the bridge ends to adjust a bit so that the card will be able to be flattened to send.

(Repeat this folding flat/adjustment step as each bridge is positioned and joined.)

13. Position the Baby Jesus bridge assembly half way in the space forward of the Mary bridge, following the same procedure as in step 12 above.

14. Position the Joseph bridge assembly  half way in the space behind the Mary bridge following the same procedures as in step 12.

Here is the card folded into its flattened position ready to insert into a sized-right envelope.

Here is the completed box card opened.

'JOY' 3d Letter Box Ensemble Project

Presenting a jolly bunch of Silhouette papercraft designs 

that are combining to wish you a Merry Christmas! 

The main players are enlarged 3d letter boxes from Snapdragon Snippets and designer Kenzie Daley. (You may note that I "created" a different 'J' than Kenzie's so that I would have a base "stage" for the slice form Christmas tree. My 'J' began life as 'U'.) 

Other elements include the 3d star, intricate Christmas wreath sized to fit the 'O', plus berry buttons, 3d box with 3d bow, 3d star ornaments that are sized small and end-glued to 

bring to mind fairy light bulbs. The elf hat is stitched from fabric with a wool felt pointy brim.

Following you will find a brief tutorial for modifying the 'U' unto the 'J'.

If you would like to receive details about which design files were used along with the size modifications I used, email me with that request: hearthsewnpatterns(at)yahoo(dot)com.

TUTORIAL

This image shows the original U cutout enlarged at the prescribed 200%.

In red is the 'J' that has the left arm trimmed 4 1/2" shorter.

Modifying the J shapes for Lid and Base by marking, cutting

1. Cut the full 'U' Lid and Base shapes. 

2. Use a measuring tool to mark the trimming position on the arm to be modified. Make sure trim line is perpendicular to upright edges. Also make sure that BASE is  reversed from LID.

3. Use rotary cutting tools or scissors to trim to size..

Modify the J shapes for Lid and Base by adjusting points

1. Open the 3d letter box 'U'.

2. Select and ungroup all shapes. (This may require two 'ungroup' steps.)

3. Delete all accent shapes. 

4. Move all parts away from design canvas.

5. Select 'grid tool', select 'show grid' and 'snap to' boxes. 

6. Move 'J' shape onto canvas in upright position with the LEFT vertical boundary line of the left "arm" and the top straight edge ON a grid lines. Zoom in to see better.

7. Select the 'J' shape, then click until the Edit Points mode appears.

8. Use the pointer tool to select the upper left arm corner point.

9. While selected, pull/drag it downward to re-position it 4 1/2" shorter; you will also need to remove an extra point. Release point.

(Use the grid to determine this position. As the change is made, the shape will distort as shown below.)

10. Repeat step 6A, except place the right line of the left "arm" on a grid line.

11. Repeat steps 7 through 9 to grab, drag the upper right corner point down

to the 4 1/2" shorter position. Save your work.

Cut-out shapes for Lid

MODIFYING THE BOXING SHAPES FOR THE NEW 'J'

You can easily identify the 'J' LID shape and the two small boxing ENDS.

Boxing OUTER EDGE (to be glued to right edge) will be cut out in two pieces, upper shape without notches for the curve, and the lower shape with the notch cutout "teeth".

Boxing INNER EDGE (to be glued to the left edge) already includes un-notched portion.

When enlarged at 200%, the boxing side strips will be too long to fit on the cutting area. Modify these either by changing the design file, or by strategic positioning 

on the mat when preparing to cut.

UNDERSTANDING THE SHAPES

A. For both the INNER and OUTER edges, the plain section without the tab "teeth" that correspond to the eliminated part of the left "arm" can be eliminated as well.

B. For the INNER EDGE piece, the plain section at top remains in place as part of boxing shape.

C. For the OUTER EDGE piece, the plain section at top must be cut separately, then joined. 

D. Make sure you can identify the design file shapes that appear on the screen. The INNER EDGE boxing piece is the shorter of the two.

CHOICE 1: STRATEGIC POSITIONING WHEN CUTTING

A. Arrange the long boxing shapes to be able to cut the pieces needed. When the cutting operation is complete, carefully remove the incompletely cut shape from cutting mat, then cut straight end edges needed using rotary tools or a traced line and scissors.

B. When boxing plain and "teeth" sections need to be joined, allow length on one piece to act as a tab to over- or under-lap and glue in place. (Perforations are not needed.)

C. Rotate and position INNER edge so that the shape remains on the mat to be cut, with the unneeded portion off the mat. INNER strip will be cut as shown in one section.

D. Rotate and position OUTER edge to cut the center "teeth" section.

E. Re-position OUTER edge to cut just the upper "plain" section. NOTE that OUTER boxing will be cut as 2 sections that will need to be glue-joined.

CHOICE 2: MODIFYING THE DESIGN FILE

Prepare the Inner Edge Boxing

Step 1. Drag a box around the Inner boxing to select it and un-group.

Step 2. Double click to make the design point squares appear.

Step 3. Point and drag the left end corner point inward to align opposite the last "tooth" of the tab cutouts. Release.

Step 4. Point and drag the other left end points inward to create the remainder of this new cutting edge. You may need to eliminate a couple of the extra points and some of the perforation line segments that are left hanging in space.

Step 5. Once the desired new shape is achieved, drag a box around everything to re-group and SAVE the changes. Use the text tool to identify this shape as the Inner Edge Boxing.

Prepare the Outer Edge Boxing

Step 1. Drag a box around the Outer boxing to select it. Copy one shape. Designate original as the lower portion and the copy as the upper portion.

Step 2. Drag a box around each to un-group. 

Step 3. Repeat Steps 2-5 of the original, selecting and moving or eliminating the points at both ends so just the "teeth" portion remains. Identify this shape as Outer Edge Boxing 1.

Step 4. Refer to the screen shot above step E, then repeat Steps 2-5 on the copy, selecting and moving or eliminating the points at one end so that just the upper end "plain" section remains. Identify this shape as the Outer Edge Boxing 2.

While you are at it. . .The 'JOY' Ensemble project requires a 1/4" hole (or custom-cut to your stem wire size) punched or cut in the center of the upper end boxing piece. As you are re-designing the pieces on screen, you can use the 'draw a circle' tool to add one to both Lid and Base pieces in corresponding position.

Base Modifications

Follow the preparation method selected previously to repeat the process for the Base J boxing sections.

This image shows the shapes for the J Base.

Note that they are reversed from the Lid layout, with the INNER edge boxing now shown on the right, and the OUTER edge boxing now shown on the left.

CONTINUE THE CONSTRUCTION PROCESS

With the enlargement, the tabs sections of the boxing pieces are too long. Trim them by scissors or rotary cutter to 1/2" beyond the perforations, as shown.

JOINING THE BOXING TO FRONT & BACK: TRIMMING TO LENGTH

Follow the prescribed process (demonstrated in tutorials at www.3under3andmore.blogspot.com ) to join the inner, then outer, then end pieces. Trim away excess notched tab portions of boxing even with the newly-cut edge. Use ruler or other tool to make sure this cut is perpendicular.

'JOY ENSEMBLE' DETAIL: Elf Hat Brim template shape

You can prepare your own pattern and cut it as a template to trace by drawing

on the Studio page with the "show grid" and "snap to" grid features ON.

Study this screen shot for spacing, then re-create it yourself.

Hope this has been helpful and empowering!